Then dark clothing and Hu Fu began to promote. Dark clothing and down in the past are not even connected to clothes together, so called dark clothing. It does not hem slit mouth, but will take a long skirt, back cover owned, so-called “continued ren crochet.” Dark clothing very popular in the Warring States Period, Zhou royal family and Zhao, Zhongshan, Qin, Qi relics and other countries have all been found to wear dark clothing characters. Chu out civil figurines dark clothing, detail structure is far more explicit. Short-sleeved suit jacket is a characteristic of Chu. Gangneung Masan on the 1st Chu had a short-sleeved “clothing”, clothes that suit, according to “Wen said,” the explanation, this is a jacket. According Bianzhong Bell Jin’s costume look, the clothes should be that short.
Hu Fu mainly refers to underwear-style clothing, especially the trousers for the characteristics of China’s northern grasslands national costume. For the riding of convenience, they wear more narrow jacket, trousers and boots. This dress made according to “Shi Ji Zhao family,” said that King Wuling of Zhao first to equip the army. Shanxi Changzhi watershed as a warrior like copper, wearing a moment straight lapel collar coat, dressed in trousers, tied at the waist with a sash, sword, it uses the Zhao Hu Fu warrior image.
“Hu Fu of the system, crown, Wai Man with the shell belt, shoe then boots, then the pleated trousers and pants ……. from the Warring States ZhaoWuLingWang, Hu Fu riding and shooting, pleated pants descendant China, both ancient thought Rong clothing, or use it to the crown, or their shoes, or their clothes and belts, or all three and use, Jin folk, even with the beginning of the Southern and Northern Dynasties of the world, Hu Fu as uniforms in the Northern, Southern Han Chinese, still Rong Fu, ratio and the Sui emperor’s clothes as hunting, or up and down the public service, civil service when compared to the wind flow height. Traces its successor as well as the prosperity of the people by the military as well as clothing, long history, complex changes, Wang (Nations peacekeeping ) s “Hu Fu test” words most detailed, not superfluous. Wei Tang Hu Fu, how special Sheng, has always been no studies have exam Wang, nor mentioned. according fool can see, more than the following three reasons: ( 1> Tang barbarian, mixed Mainland numerous; (2) the aristocracy, waste ancient sit-down, and for the barbarian sit upon; (3) courtier attendants, abandoned the vehicle while still riding.
Hu Fu among those so-called semi-arm. Ancient semi-arm, this statement jacket. “Wen said,” no coat word, “Jade articles” nor the fear of being Gua word gown Gua are from Guyana was sound, custom made gown, but not as a “hung” or “hang.” Sleeveless or semi-arm’s clothing, are Hu Fu, “the only crime recorded · Costume Zhi” cloud: “dynasties collapse pleats, Rong Fu also, short sleeves or sleeveless and clothing interruption, under cross-fold, and the next There is a vertical fold and if Sleeve, was trolling Caesar, or intermittent waist to cross the road line, that the number of days clothing, Wireless Road, that the robe. ”
Like this pleated pants, but also becomes Hu Fu general name. Where sleeveless, short sleeve, long sleeve of clothing, and lumbar transverse intermediate wired or wireless channel cross road of gowns, pleated pants can be called, so now the theory of semi-arms, which is Hu Fu, never without problems . To its shape, Song has three different “with then recorded” “raccoon sleeve” of the most detailed above:
“In recent years clothes made, there is a such as spin coat, long waist, however, cover only the elbow sleeves, whom most thick silk, still wrapped with a clip, or one of those with a sponge to edge of the purple soap, name day raccoon sleeves, smell prince Yu Yuan from people in Yuma, short front and rear lapel who wish to sit on the saddle off by its ease of control with short sleeves Yu ear. “long but the waist, sleeves only cover the elbow, purple rim with soap cloth, a bodysuit, some cotton clothing, apparently semi-arm system. With its short front and rear flaps, may wish to sit on the saddle off, it can also be called jacket, jacket that breasted jacket. Ming of the system still ran. “Rizhilu” Volume eighteen “breasted jacket” called: “Dynasty Hongwu twenty memoir ban in March 1996, the official China infantry, etc., serving breasted suits, Xu Wei riding clothes, so it is also riding. “is also. “(From Huang Xianfan the” Preliminary interpretation of ancient books. “)
Archaeological discoveries is the most direct kind of clothing materials, but the clothing is very difficult to today’s long-term preservation, so the research of clothing styles Spring and Autumn Period, except apparel kind unearthed, but also rely unearthed sculpture, paintings and other indirect information as the supplement.
Hubei Jiangling Masan-kind clothing Warring States Chu unearthed
(A) Class gown cut method has positive cut, bias cut two kinds.
Positive cut method: robe of shirt lower two parts, a total of eight tops are cut, the seating arrangement two 32 cm wide each, all three sleeves, width 42 cm, 43 cm, 45 cm. After more than eight put together, and then from the bottom suture. In contact with the seating arrangement in the armpit sleeves, another fight a long 37 cm wide and 24 cm rectangular, easy arm up and down. Leading edge with a weft made from the flowers of ribbons, are cut to dajin portion extends downward 44 cm. Lower part is cut of five, large and small breasted front two each 45 cm wide, the other three each width 41 cm. Garment edge hem edge straight cut another patchwork.
Xiecai France: Top part of the seating arrangement and the sleeves are bias cut, a total of eight, width 23 cm, 26 cm, 17 cm, sleeve edge, leading edge also bias cut. Lower part is cut of eight, each 20-37 cm wide ranging.
There are three types of styles gowns.
The first type rear collar concave, triangular cross front neck collar. Slanted toward closing down sleeves kill sleeves widest point in the armpit, a small cuff. This type of smaller, more practical.
The second type straight sleeves, wide cuffs, short sleeve tube. Straight from the collar, front neck collar for the cross (triangles). Clothing and body more relaxed, as the cover on the surface of the robes.
The third type of long sleeves, rounded in the lower sleeve (sleeve below the arc called “Hu”, according to “Han Yu Fu,” that it is modeled on the cow’s neck under the Hu-shaped pendant designed). Loose clothing and body, there are luxurious demeanor. Such models still continue to be popular to the Western Han.
These three types are cross collar, right Ren, direct garment style, tops and lower part as a single entity. Also observe the Warring States Chu unearthed in Changsha, silk painting figures and wooden figurines, there are skirts right extends backward curved triangular body garment gown type, kind in Changsha Mawangdui Western Han discoveries.
(2) Zen clothing cross collar, right Ren, direct garment, shirt and lower part connected to the sleeves were Huzhuang.
(3) clip Yiyi knee-length, cross collar, right Ren, direct garment, T-shirt and lower part is connected.
(4) 〓 (qiū tone autumn) is a short-sleeved style clothing breasted suits, 〓 word connected with the coverlet word. With a piece of cloth around the upper cut, folded into sleeves, around the lower part of the inner flaps folded into two, and then embroidered silk inlaid collar, two lapel, hem, cuffs and other edge is made. Two lapel pair (breasted style), waist and hem width, concave back neck. Original size is very small, specially for sacrificial victims are placed in bamboo trunk, the bamboo from outside the department name 〓 clothing.
(5) is slightly larger than a single skirt hem skirt waist skirt surface with eight sewing fight, width of 27 cm, 27 cm, 27.5 cm, 26 cm, 27 cm, 24 cm, 27 cm, 26 cm, width 12.5 hem edge cm.
(6) by the cotton hakama hakama hakama waist and legs of two parts, hakama waist 4, each connected to two feet hakama, each 30.5 cm wide, 45 cm long. Hakama feet on each side 2, in which a whole lot of silk with wide and 50 cm, length 61 cm. Another one with a half-silk, width 25 cm, length 59 cm. Hakama Ministry feet into a fight side length 12 cm, width 20 cm rectangular hakama crotch, a wide-brimmed with hakama waist phase. A side seam in hakama feet, folded into a triangle, expand the funnel-shaped. Hakama foot and fight with one 32 cm long, 9 cm wide stripes hakama edge, made of small hakama mouth, hakama feet each seams are inlaid silk sash. Embroidered silk for fabrics, deep yellow silk lining. Hakama hakama foot portion is connected to the waist. But the two are not connected to the crotch. Form midfielder open crotch. Hakama waist width 0.5 cm, length 116 cm hakama.
(7) Expand cap irregular frustum-shaped, folded showed high to low, the top convex, there are holes. Group in the side after the cap fitted with two beams should be a cap system. Height 18.5 cm width, 25 cm in front of, behind 40 cm long. Red-brown silk fabric, lining yellow silk; big diamond brocade trim.
(8) hemp shoes pointed semicircular front, side slope was like, inner layer with straw, linen painted with black lacquer surface; another face in the outsourcing Kam. Sole with twine knotted, from outward-by-turn winding of 27 turns. Compiled under many nipple-shaped knot. Length 23 cm, height 5 cm.
Unearthed around the indirect materials
For information on the Spring and Autumn period costumes indirect lot, now select some clothing structure clearer figure sculpture, painting image for reference.
Warring States period unearthed in Changsha Chu Lian paint decorative character pattern, painted figures, although very concise, but very realistic style. Seated in the middle of the room for watching the dance master. Stand in the outdoors for dance performances, worn by the big sleeves, wide hem, V-shaped cross collar gown, tight waist belt, body beautiful. “Dead child”: “Chu King Wuling good waist, while many hungry people in the country.” Lian paint portraits of this performance, it is also slender attire. In addition, all the characters dress collar, cuffs, hem and belts are white, probably in the dark robe lined with wearing a white shirt. Although the crown of the head is not clear, but all tassel belt sag, hinges on submandibular.
Luoyang Golden Village Han tomb unearthed two curved hem long-sleeved gown dancer Warring States jade, style are cross collar, right Ren, gowns long drag, and gird big band.
Warring States Chu unearthed in Changsha, Hunan Yangtianhu female wooden figurines, painted wearing embroidered cross collar right Ren Qu garment gown, collar and ren side are decorated with brocade wide margin.
Changsha Warring States Chu unearthed painted wooden figurines, mostly straight garment wear gowns, wearing only a curved hem gowns. Gowns elderly drag, the shorter and ankle, along the border are inlaid brocade robe garment edge. Gown body ornamentation as thunder pattern and heavy Diamondbacks, heavy Diamondbacks also known as “cup pattern”, because it is the shape of the ears paint cup, or “longevity pattern”, take longevity auspicious meaning.
Luoyang Golden Village Han tomb unearthed the Warring States bronze girls playing mahjong, tops for the stand-up collar style, stand-up collar is a collar stand collar add to nest made. Only knee-length skirt skirts, short skirts for the medium. Pendant around his waist with a leather belt, leather belt hanging hanging jade group group band. Foot wear leather boots, hair comb at around two long braids. With a modern aesthetic point of view, but also quite fashionable. The Xiaoque column chart is added to the posterity.
HebeiYan under all Warring States unearthed bronze, wear the right ren rectangular cross collar robe, and gird leather strap with snap hook.
Changsha bullet library Warring States Chu Yu Long Ascension figure unearthed silk painting, a picture of a man riding a dragon, dragon fish before, the dragon is the heron after cormorant birds, which means that to get into the sea or going to heaven. Man wearing a crown cloud cut long tassel knot in the lower jaw, and gird big band gowns relaxed, wide sleeves, curved hem, long enough to cover. Dark clothing at that time.
Changsha, Hunan, Chen Chu unearthed Warring mountain girl dragon dynasty. Painting a woman hands together praying, wearing wide sleeves loose robe garment drag song, sleeve body hypertrophy, cuffs shrink convergence, arc into the lower vertical Huzhuang, and gird big band, with Changsha bullet library Warring States Chu dynasty unearthed in driving Long gown style men’s basically the same.
“Mailyard clothing” that the sleeve body expanded portion is “cured”, Cuff shrink grabbing part of the “sleeve”, this sleeve was later called “pipa sleeve.” Robe with shirt difference is that there is no cuffs with cuff for gowns, without cuffs for shirts. Hubei Warring States tomb unearthed with the county bells Ju (jù tone according to) the middle of the bronze, rectangular cross collar shirt, tight, tight sleeves, long skirt hem Left Right Qu Bo was short-bending, leading edge is decorated with geometric lace . Beneath the folds, dress skirts, dress skirts on each side a geometric pattern straight pattern for decoration. Shorter knee-length skirt, the elderly and land. Are worn on the jacket within. Leather belt around his waist, hanging pendant tassels and heart-shaped sac. Right waist wear dagger. Wearing tight under the wide flat cap for ceremonial band’s attire.
Several groups of Warring States Chu Pei figurines unearthed group, then the princes Sishen polishers and Heaven are wearing the dress wear jade, so-called gentleman for no reason, not jade body.
Pingshan three drain Warring States tomb unearthed in Zhongshan, jade, are wearing down the left front, rectangular cross collar, narrow sleeves shirt, generous Plaid fabric dress, skirt length and ankle. Hair or head hair at the top, at the top of the comb bun. Or for Phi hair style, hair and hanging on the back. Some wear on your head high horn-shaped plug comb crown for decoration, quite Hmong girl with this angular silver crown similar Yu the ancient tribe of fresh clothing.
Shang a horse driving, ancient hunting or expulsion violated by horses and sheep wolves, Central Plains war Warring seven countries have massive cavalry, so that starting in the Warring States ZhaoWuLingWang, cavalry instead of chariots, symbolizing movement speed increased, “Jane child” says Chu Yee soldiers “Light Lee Piaosu (speed), the rate (step) as Piaofeng.” “Use of soldiers who feel fooled dark, Mozhi it from the output.” “Warring States policy a” Qi “swift cone vector, war, such as lightning, solutions such as wind and rain.” “Art of War” “The Blind Side, surprise “” the beginning (static) as a virgin …… after (moving) such as rabbits. ” “Records of white from Biography”: “absolutely Zhao Qin Qibing 25,000 after another five thousand troops riding absolutely Zhao intramural.” Chu also cavalry ten thousand, “the ancient bird Sutra” “He Guan, samurai clothes, like his courage too.” Ying Shao “Han officials instrument”: “Huben, crown tail plug Lu Dian, Lu Dian, bird of prey in the fresh fruit are also, each summary should claw grab destroy broken. Tail fooled the tribute.” “Han continued,”: “Habayashi crown crown force all around the prison, plus double-Lu Dian tail.” Jin wearing tiger pants.
