Back son, Banbi, vests, vehicles crotch these four costumes, very similar, after all four of the men and women wear. Which covers the changes in the Song Dynasty, which is why the above costumes alone to introduce.
Back son called Bei son, son. Although men and women wear this style in the Song Dynasty, but its use in the form and time has different requirements, different people wearing are not the same.
To men and women wore back son, is breasted, after the two axillary shoulder straps are hanging there, because it is breasted, so you need to use a belt with beams and decorated in the chest. Cross collar or collar plate back son, multi-disc collar and supporting the use of public services, it is difficult to back sub-sub-areas used in the form of its effect.
From the historical data on the. Men wore back child can not as a formal dress to wear, although the Song Dynasty emperor has to wear this back son, but only in the non-ceremonial occasions wearing. Although there are usually literati wearing back child see the guests, but must wear a hat, and put roots down with the next two axillary line in the chest as a courtesy.
Song woman wearing back son, was in the previous semi-arm and single forms the basis to develop. Women back then there must be an underarm slits called back son, or it may be long undergarment, since the child back to the knee length. Armpit slit is also very long, about eleven in the armpit, thirteen centimeters has been stuck in the end edges. Collar with oblique collar, straight collar, plate collar, sleeves shorter than the shirt than Banbi long. Chest silk with a knot as a courtesy, there are the two sideways armpit double down with the Department, and later removed the set of double belt. Because of the time evolution of the wearer’s different long or narrow, and the fabric is also differences in color, etc. is also very strict, aristocratic women or behind the back child clothing dress with big sleeves dress. More formal occasions wear formal dress, hair done, generally occasions wore back son and skirts. If the Queen to wear back child back to her parents, Queen’s Day is the third glass of wine at the festival after a group can put on the crown, back son, described as the mufti back child use. General unmarried women and concubines and women who also put back the Son to be dressed in uniforms. Others, such as matchmaking may also be wearing. So women are also men back into the action of the Department are different. Difficult child only for casual wear, women’s dress was able to be inferior or uniforms.
Banbi originally worn by warriors, because it facilitates action. In addition to the samurai, the Song Dynasty in the home and other less formal occasions to wear semi-arm of the licensed corporation collar, cross collar, lapel lapel style with straight, cross lapel, while sleeves can be subtracted. Women also have to wear semi-arm, this semi-arms are on the outside cover. Semi-arm sleeves lengthened to become the child back, if minus sleeves, for similar vest it. Quilts can be worn on the inside, such as ramie cloth vest.
There are military vehicles on the crotch crotch wear armor vehicles, but there were also people wear vehicles crotch cedar. Vehicles crotch usually wear on the outside, the outer vest is also similar, but shorter than the vest, so that both the similarity between the two, there are different.
⑤ Song, Yuan, Ming and Qing period clothing
(1) Men’s Clothing Song
Song Men generally costumes are: clothing, clothes, robe, shirt, jacket jacket, pleated shirt, straight drop, said clothing (gowns), crane cloak, back son, raccoon sleeves, I am similar, abdominal circumference and so on.
In addition to the Mianfu Song robes and towards taking shirt lower, in general, very little wear.
Song length gown to the foot, with a single and pinch, would have said batt gowns, also known as long undergarment, after the rich do with brocade robe, called Jin Pao general or coarse Bupao people wearing white robes, cassock robe is a Material thick and short robe, there is lack of hips don gowns, short hip shirt, Song inherited their system, but in a design and a slightly different name, Song lack of hip-shirt called “four bundle wrapped in cloth shirt” missing hip gown called “” four bundle wrapped in cloth robe. Song is a different style round neck, the right of junction, and there is a large wide body and narrow sleeves tight sleeves two kinds.
Short brown, is made of canvas or burlap rough clothes. Because it is a narrow body, the sleeve is small, so they are called tube sleeve jacket. Tan clothes, did not like the short brown short, narrow, generally refers to does not belong to a class of silk and brocade lining, is also useful as hemp or wool, usually wear civilian hidden soil, and it is one of the clothes road home .
Shirts varieties in the Song Dynasty, clothing style a lot, if cool shirt, purple shirt, white shirt tuck shirts, sweaters, GE Shandeng. Cool shirt draped on the outside, because it is shallow white, so called white shirt, and as to the later time of condolences fierce mourning clothes, do not wear other occasions, paclitaxel was originally ring wear, because it is purple, so purple shirt , front slit for easy riding, short and narrow, sweaters and Ge Ge shirt is made of wool or linen into a shirt, pleated shirt, shirt plus a lower horizontal pleating, scribes often wear is generally due to close sub-robe shape, so officials there are many people wear; also called hoodies, because wearing his post, wearing a black T-shirt named Lo system.
Jacket coat were civilians everyday wear costumes, this difference between the two is not great, and later on, “a generic term. Straight drop, said clothing, Crane Song Dynasty cloak is draped over the outside of the ordinary course of more lenient dress, straight drop long clothes and clothing in the back of the way to the next seam, so named, also called straight body, there are some monks wear straight drop, said jacket is a Taoist canonic, not specifically refer to the soil road wear costumes, general Scholars can wear it cross design is inclined collar dress, surrounded by black cloth rim, with dark brown robe made of the design, so called robes, wearing a gi, sometimes with a silk sash tied waist. Hok cloak This is Tsuruha other bird feathers twisted into precious cashmere woven fur clothing, the Jin and Southern Dynasties, when there is a. style is to wear sleeves, big body, and later put this dress is called the large crane cloak, these three Dress like a fairly thick, but the jacket is a straight drop and channel cross dress oblique collar, while the crane is a straight collar cloak drooping to the ground a form.
Song had something called raccoon sleeve dress, this dress is characterized by ease of riding, while the length of the sleeve between the elbow and to the waist, is a relatively short tight-fitting costumes.
Hygrophila is a rain gear, is woven out of grass, Tang Zhang and the “Fishermen child” in there “Li Qing bamboo cane, green raincoat and Inclined rain do not need to go home” of the sentence, Tang has hygrophila visible.
Abdominal circumference and said previous gowns (hold) is not the same belly, waist circumference is a clothing accessory. Song people like to use with the yellow abdominal circumference, called called “waist yellow.”
(2) Women’s Clothing Song
Song women’s clothing is more complex. This is also the ancient times to the development of common clothing. At that time many fantastic costumes, tricks, contend pomp, and later the government had decreed: Women’s clothing color color obey her husband’s clothes, ordinary people are not allowed to wear women’s fine silk damask woven colored Pied. But at that time people did not how to comply with this requirement, the culture flourished unabated fashion. At the time, prefer the “odd clothing transvestites” to adopt foreign costumes, and later emperors edict Khitan tribe who have to wear clothes, are set to behead the crime, but was unprecedented fashion.
Casual but fashionable lady Song thin, thin, long, each period is not the same as before, and dress color also broke the Tang Dynasty, with purple, green, green-based practice, the use of all kinds between the color purple, Black and Purple, light blue, silver, incense color and so on. Elegant colors, quiet, reasonable use of a relatively high neutral gray tone, clothing pattern also by the relatively regular pattern into a sketch of the Tang Dynasty broken branches in the pattern, even more vivid, lively and natural.
General civilian women, especially working women or Bipu, are still narrow-sleeved jacket to wear. But more than the late Tang, the Five Dynasties longer leaner, colors in white, others have Qianjiang, light green and so on. Culottes also relatively thin short, the color blue, white is the most common.
Overall, women’s attire Song, in addition to the Northern Song Dynasty had once popular big-sleeved jacket, fat wide culottes, the narrow, thin, long, odd this period the main features of women’s clothing.
Shirt is one of the most common clothing style, most of the Song Dynasty women’s shirt is decorated with embroidery. Mostly round, cross collar, straight collar, breasted, handsome slim waist, hem and more, have longer open air, clothing is generally used Luo, yarn, silk, fine silk and other light soft material.
Jacket and the jacket is similar to the clothing style, short jacket shape, generally to the waist, buttons down the front, side seam hem at the open air, sleeve ends slim bodice is relatively narrow. Jacket with a single jacket, double jacket, single jacket and shirt are similar, complex jacket and jacket similar. Usually aristocratic women’s clothing color with purple and yellow in color, with embroidered Lo plus embroidery. Women usually mostly blue, white, brown as much, the older women like to wear purple jacket.
The jacket is mostly lined with cotton lining or clip tight a winter coat, cardigan, hem side seam gas, also known as “spin-coat” can be replaced gowns. Song for wearing gowns is limited, except Mingfu can wear, the rest of the majority of women are not allowed to wear folk. Ming Fu’s robe after specified color, Mishina These are purple, embroidered with crane and turf grass, yellow Mishina the following law, not embroidered like. As for the jacket of clothing color, in addition to white regulations as “fierce clothes”, the rest is no limit to what you can with everyone’s preferences.
Song woman in tight sleeves jacket is a casual prevalent. Breasted style is, cross collar, narrow sleeves, long clothing to the knees. Characterized by a very thin narrow, or even close. Because of this new style clothing and material saving, so soon pop up, not only aristocratic women like to wear, the average woman have to follow suit. This also shows that people pay attention to economic and practical Song, in addition to head bun, but try to save dress clothing, so both for action, but also exaggerated feminine curves.
But also a kind of popular lapel style take long to knee Zhaixiu clothing. When making the collar lapel plus two narrow embroidered decoration. Lapel is generally triangular in shape, sometimes wearing a cape silk, ribbon waist line, both made of a variety of comic knot.
Song became popular stick body wrapped tight sleeves, front and rear sides of the seam where the slit, slit at many clothing buttoned as decoration, called “secret four”, known as the demon suit, fancy dress is an ancient one.
Northern Song Dynasty, women like to dress in front of the slit, so easy riding, wealthy family woman loves to wear at home. This custom even to the Yuan Dynasty (mainly in the court) also still retains.
Song women’s pants are generally not exposed to the outside coefficient of skirt, skirt pants cover most of the inside of the skirt. However, there is not a single outside skirt pants, but it is lower for women attire. Song trousers are embroidered, but also to maintain a non-crotch pants.
There are time when women lingerie Bra and Guodu. Both the shape of almost just Strapless short and Guodu longer. Tee times
Can also be worn on the outside. Song equate women as men around a waist circumference at the waist, the “waist yellow” also has blue and white cloth tied around the waist of.
(3) Men’s Clothing Yuan
Million people with white, blue, He most popular color. Like the Mongols still white, with white as clean; Mongolian worship days, so it is still
Cyan.
To service quality is one of the Mongolian dressed, Chinese words translated as “the same color clothing,” the dark clothing with Zhou approximate. Sleeves tight, narrow,
And lower part is shorter. Length to the knee, and there are numerous pleats at the waist, pleated skirt shape as it is now, plus horizontal pleats at the waist skirts, collar mostly right of junction cross collar, square collar, plate collar. Lower body is small mouth pants, wearing contact sewn boots, beginning with felt vellus waist leather for decoration, then wring silk or gold wire twisted into line with purple silk, cross wrapped around the waist, so horseback, tighten Waist out of the body’s contours. Drapery patterns are: day, month, dragon, phoenix pattern. Quality to take blue, red cotton do more shoulder room in the clothes decorated with large punish as decoration.
Song Dynasty general men have to wear round neck collar Song cross collar gowns and robes, wearing a song where the poor working people is the jacket, Phi raincoat, skirt or leggings barefoot, big belt tied at the waist, clothing and more for the right formula ren, cross collar, insert hairpin or wearing hats.
Yuan Men’s clothing range, name and different, and there is the difference between North and South, as well as dark clothing, Aozi, stays protection, Romania
Shirt, mink fur, sweatshirts, Kam shirt, jacket draped regiment jacket, felt shirt, oil, clothing, the sleeves, the military withdrawal …… can not count them out, because seven hundred years from now, we can only pass some images and relics to understand their general situation.
(4) Yuan women’s clothing
Mongol Yuan Dynasty also includes women’s clothing women and ethnic women’s clothing when. Song Han women remain service system, tops than
Lean back pretty child, sweater jacket, cloud shoulder so much beneath the skirt, the head usually top heart hairpin comb. Later, under the influence of Mongolian women’s clothing, wearing a brownish – black denim or silk made left front, narrow sleeves, and gird big man with a robe gradually increased. In addition, this period is also popular among women in a variety of single breasted quilted coats and short-sleeve jacket, which is the Tang and Song period costumes are not the same, but with the Mongolian Women’s Apparel on the characteristics of their native . Mongolian women in gowns for the dress. Mongolian women wearing gowns wide and long, the right jacket cross collar. Sleeve cuffs at large but narrow, equivalent to the current bat shirt form.
(5) Men’s Clothing Ming
Some men’s apparel primarily in the Ming Dynasty cover A, electricity and so on.
A cover within the Ming Dynasty official, all history, soldiers, the governor, to be Lang and general man wearing a vest
Style jacket. Usually in the spring and autumn wear other clothes outside, short, easy action. A pattern embroidered on the hood, and some at the hem, and silk benefits to decorate.
Shen, from the quality of the Yuan Sun servers, but also with dark clothing made similar, but the lower part is dark clothing pros and cons of twelve without folds, and Ming
On behalf of the minister of the military have to wear long tight sleeves son, hem gas, dish collar or square collar, shirt with horizontal pleats, pleated lower part flanking a vest, which is now the pleated. Who was wearing the military in addition to the minister, there are some foreign minister and scholar, etc., this is a nimble and easy action costumes.
At the time, some of the clothing, such as shirts, jackets, skirts, and others hit the Tang Song service system, there is no big change.
(6) Ming Dynasty women’s clothing
Ming has been with the previous generation of women are different, but you can still see in the early Ming Dynasty Scheeren and impact. Left front, narrow sleeves robe still visible
To. General Women’s fashionable tight sleeves shirt jacket, back child, dress and so on. Ming Dynasty women’s skirt changes more, is a popular costumes. Ming aristocratic women’s clothing color requirements with real red, blue and yellow crow, and the general woman can only use purple green, pink and light.
Back son aristocratic women dress is one of the Ming Dynasty, also known as “cloak”, and the previous generation of back child, vest similar. Usually in the fall and winter
Season wear, women in general also put back the child as a gift to wear loose-fitting design is the big sleeves. Music prostitutes can wear a black back son.
BEL originally Yuan Dynasty costumes, but in the north, especially by women who like as everyday clothing, collar breasted, collar plate
Or cross collar, sleeveless or short-sleeved, knee-length to the arm or to some longer, less than a foot off the ground, since the Yuan Dynasty, with buttons, the BEL is also useful for buttons, so wear more convenient, fast, tight binding, is the new changes in clothing. BEL usually wear in the big-sleeved shirt, Aozi addition, the following wear skirts, so Bijia with shirt, jacket, skirt with color layering can be proved to. To the Qing Dynasty, in addition to the old woman in the home wear cotton BEL cold outside, BEL generally do not wear it.
Long coat, long skirt is a casual. The design is a long coat collar disk, or a cross-breasted collar, collar fastened with metal buttons, narrow sleeves,
Both leaders and hem rim, before the Ming Dynasty jacket is different, generally grow to knee, so called “long coat”; clothing color multi purple, green; clothing General Luo, satin jacket with the big-sleeved shirt on a similar pattern are generally embroidery.
As women prevailed Footwraps Ming, and the pursuit of “line does not reveal enough”, so aristocratic women wear long skirt to cover lotus feet,
Broken branches wrapped skirt embroidered patterns, or Qunfu below one, two inches position, embroidered lace, as the presser foot, the initial Qunfu with six, but also to follow the ancient ritual, called “skirt drag six Xiangjiang River water “To the Ming Dynasty, Qunfu into eight, waist pintucks lot, walking like sparkling water, Timor same.
There is also a lingerie Women in Ming Dynasty, called “kidney.” Women is around the chest, shoulder and arm, and exposing a breast and chest upper clothes,
It is different with the apron, is wide of silk damask, cross wrapped around the chest and some have buttons, plus embroidery.
(7) Men’s Clothing Qing
Man Qing Dynasty costumes in general everyday jacket, collar coat, vest, pants, jacket, pants and so on.
Jacket, is a more popular Qing unique clothing style. This is the Qing soldiers wear, active wear such clothes because of convenience,
Walking quickly, so called “victory gown”; later because it often wears the robes outside, so called “fill coat.” The structure mostly round neck jacket, cardigan, dajin, pipa lapel (missing lapel), herringbone coat; has long sleeves, short sleeves, big sleeves, tight sleeves, are flat cuffs. Jacket in Jiaqing often used as a decorative edge clothing wishful inlay, which came up in general.
Collar clothing, Wuzhou called “cow tongue.” Because it looks like a cow’s tongue, which from the force under the neck down to the waist and chest have been re-
Room, and caught in his waistband, white, and embroidered pattern, this dress makes exaggerated shoulders and the waist is even narrower prominent, thus reflecting the broad shoulders slender figure bodybuilding.
Vest, also known as “waistcoat”, cattle arm vest. This is the people in the spring and winter cover outside in a sleeveless blouse shirt. Regardless of
Young and old, respectable and humble like to wear vests. This dress from the Wei and Jin Dynasties sleeve crotch into a vest, through a thousand years of history, each period has its own characteristics. Qing lapel vest is a variety of ways and buckle lapel decoration and pattern of personality organization, drawing on the northern Archery costumes decor, such as multi-buttons Duoniu Ma A, ie BATURO waistcoat.
Men’s clothing Qing Dynasty, Manchu and the North due to the impact of ethnic riding and shooting, had the habit of not wearing skirts skirts, while the general
Robe, coat and pants as the main garment sleeve. Qing-style high waist pants men, co-crotch trousers fat wide. Then there are the trousers inlay cover satin edge. Northern men, many in the trousers and wide straps with flat Zhazhu leg openings, so not only warm, mobile and convenient.
Chaps, men in the northern winter, spring and autumn wear a dress style. Two legs are not tied together inside wear when set in
Pants on the outside surface, exposing the arm and leg on the back, a bit like the current rain pants, trousers upper narrower.
In addition to the above said, the Jiangsu farmers working in the rice fields to wear a very short “cow pants”, shaped like a cow,
Ease in the mud, paddy fields of labor, and the Han Dynasty “Dubi pants” is quite similar.
(8) in the Qing Dynasty Women’s Apparel
Qing women’s clothing is the most significant role of buttons. Button originally used primarily in dress, buttons become the Qing Dynasty
Kind of clothes indispensable clothing. Initially only decorative buttons on the collar, so that the cross collar since ancient times, the disc collar, straight collar areas such as a change and became a high collar. The original total exposed neck, with buttons that you can not reveal it.
Qing Han women usually wear tight sleeves jacket, shirt, waistcoat, skirt, pants and so on.
Cheongsam, is very popular among women Manchu a robe, which has since become one of Han women primarily dress. Manchu Qing wear cheongsam and later known as the cheongsam costume is great distinction, but then the dress is full of people on the basis of this robe evolved. Cheongsam, initially very large, waist to drum, then gradually becomes smaller. Round neck, right Ren, high collar or low collar, high collar can be as high as the late Qing Dynasty when two half inches or so. Cheongsam with a single, clip, cotton, leather of the points, are distinguished by the change of seasons. Generally pale colored gowns majority. Manchu women wore cheongsam, cheongsam mostly cast out like a waistcoat.
Han Qing Ming followed mostly women’s clothing; generally on the jacket, shirt, under a skirt, then do not wear skirts to wear pants.
Mostly round neck sweater jacket, right Ren, dajin, breasted, pipa lapel, big sleeves, and beautiful trim. The multi-purpose jacket material, cotton, satin, jersey and more yarn, Luo, silk, etc., also have homes woven batik cloth. Color to azure, blue, pink, white, red, etc. as much. Winter with mink, fox fur and the like. Trim is extremely complicated, delicate, there were “eighteen inlay” argument.
Generally good dress, style more. Such as Suzhou women “white kilt”, the whole lot of dress up in front of hundreds of similar cover the knee skirt,
Pleated around “horse face skirt”, also called “Yuehua skirt,” because in each pleat skirt, colored taste, like the bright moon halo Yao Guanghua named; another “bomb ink skirt” is used Ink bomb hole on the skirt, elegant and unique style elements, like a painting, rendering a mix of change; There are also “Pteris skirt”, “fish scale pleated skirt”, “foreign printed skirt”, “gold mud cluster butterfly skirt “,” phoenix embroidered skirt “,” full Huaqun “,” a jade skirt “,” devils railing skirt “,” trim inlay roll skirt “,” Clank skirt “and so on, these skirts with different features, it only highlights the women’s slender figure, but also shows a gorgeous and rich decorative beauty.
Qing underage woman wearing pants. High waist pants formula, co crotch pants to foot shape is not like man’s pants so fat wide. Wear it with a long belt Cinch, the remaining part as a decoration. Women than men in colorful pants, pattern rich, you can choose according to their likes. In addition there is a woman’s leg openings in common, namely trousers decorated with a variety of trim. Guangxu, Cuff to do several layers of trim, the first widest, two, three to narrow. When to Xuantong. Pants also were thin, trim reduced than before.
Chinese clothing reflects the development process of political, economic and cultural evolution. Come to the profound Chinese culture, boundless. Through the clothing, we can understand the ancient Chinese, the ancient sages sages creative achievements of civilization which will be reflected. The more familiar we become ashamed regret. We are determined to learn sage, development and progress of the motherland have made outstanding contributions, to comfort the ancestral spirits!
