August 19 evening, the Chinese clothing brands joint conference opened Aoshanwan 2013 China ( Jimo ) curtain of international fashion season
How to jump out of the price war swirl toward creativity battlefield ? Aoshanwan 2013 China ( Jimo ) international fashion season series of events brought us new vision
” Creative manufacturing ”
“China’s garment industry , to go the way of creative industry .” August 19 , China National Garment Association executive vice president Chen Dapeng in Aoshanwan 2013 China ( Jimo ) says on the international fashion season .
Meanwhile, the Chinese garment manufacturing exposition , namely fa · 2013 Aoshanwan Fashion Forum, 20 events held over the same period .
This Fujian manufacturer Cai Datong , is an evangelical , “This is an important direction .”
He made the clothing business for decades, but the worst performance last year , ” 2008 does not receive export orders , at least there are a lot of inquiry , 2012 Inquiry are even less .”
In 2008 , he survived plight , businesses large outbreak in 2009 . So he orders subcontracted to counterparts do, but in 2012 the order himself rarely had their own production, half of those subcontractors failed.
” Bigger and harder and harder .” He lamented.
First, find workers , even with workers , rising wages weight around his neck . Meanwhile, prices of raw materials is high, particularly in recent years, the vagaries of cotton , but also so that he suffered terribly. In addition, the RMB appreciation and other issues, but also let him worse.
“Twenty years ago processing and export a sweater earn $ 30, now only 1 yuan .” He said.
As a result, many companies have started to migrate .
For example, if that is made in Anhui Industrial Park was established , but also set up a factory in Vietnam , and Adidas also closed the only one ‘s own factory in China .
Nike calendar year under report shows that in 2001 , China produced 40% of its shoes , ranked first in the world , only 13 per cent in Vietnam . In 2005, the Chinese share fell to 36 percent , Vietnam rose to 26 percent , ranked second ; 2009 , China and Vietnam , respectively, with a 36 % share of tied for first ; 2010 , Vietnam’s share rose to 37 percent , more than China ‘s 34%.
In fact, the Southeast Asian countries, wages are rising . October 2011 , the minimum monthly wage in Vietnam are 2,000,000 VND ; September 2012 onwards, the minimum monthly wage of workers in Cambodia increased to $ 83 ……
In fact , long been media reports that the manufacturing cost of doing business in Vietnam and other places close to China , ” the overall costs than domestic production is only about 15% lower .” Where the customer stakeholders says.
More importantly, the long lead times , and the lack of industrial chain , “Take the summer ladies , if two months before delivery, the summer becomes fall , and not for the market ‘s rapid response .”
Similarly, the “SME try to transfer to the Midwest , but some enterprises due to the unfamiliar , had to return to Guangdong .” Guangdong Provincial Bureau of Policy and Regulation Department Banking Min researcher said.
Cost of the war has ended .
How to do ?
” China must be transformed , ” UC Riverside professor Vicior.Lippit that constantly cultivate and enhance manufacturing ” new comparative advantage .”
His suggestion is that from the production of primary products, the export of primary products to production and export of more sophisticated and advanced products.
This requires a comprehensive seminar market , starting from a global perspective , redefining “Made in China .”
Network traction
Red Collar mass customization orders, continuously from the United States .
For the amount of body , the U.S. customer data transmitted over the Internet into the database , the database has five trillion data, and customer data mapping.
Part 35 in Qingdao, workstations, can be directly connected with the database , and according to customer data on the corresponding version of the type to be adjusted , and then cut through the automatic cutting device directly .
And hanging in the workshop online , without a costume is the same style , same color, while the individual from the initial design to final garment distribution only seven days .
Experts believe that , after years of OEM manufacturing practice , people from Red Collar “set code ” and ” semi-custom ” , into a personalized custom design of the ” Blue Ocean” , and in ” handmade haute couture ” and ” pure manual measurement to increase industrial production “, the out of the” identifying customer needs – personalized design and verify – largest producer of personalized production – modern logistics fast delivery “of the new road.
Its secret is the ” world’s Suit Premium Suppliers platform .” According to reports, through this platform , customers can complete each terminal to express their needs, identify customer needs through red collar , personalized design, and quickly realize delivery basis is supply chain integration capabilities .
” This is not just a software system , not just a set of optimization and upgrading of equipment , but a marketing change mode , and even a business management disruptive innovation , ” said Deputy Chairman Zhang red collar , from the demand has begun , subdivision market , a change in the past practice of corporate sales , Mr. postpartum , red collar can be directly facing a single customer , not only eliminates certain commercial sectors , but also with customers , fabric suppliers profit sharing , forming a new value chain of ecological civilization .
” Opens with a digital custom personalized clothing is red collar core competitiveness .” Zhang agency said.
Obviously, this is the information age , the industrial transformation of a case .
Experts believe that the ongoing third industrial revolution , one of its characteristics is from the large quantities of standardized production to mass customization to personalize mass production , mass customization is the only way to adapt to the development of new manufacturing , agile production, personalization production of important ways .
The ” mass customization is the information , unitized or modular , highly flexible , and rigid large production line is completely different .” China National Garment Association , deputy director of the Science and Technology Committee of Experts Wen Lik Sang said.
According to reports , the use of 3D CAT / CAD / CAM garment rapid generation system that can quickly obtain human data , and can be subdivided measurement site in order to establish the body size of the database .
In the human body has a huge database, people will be more standardized platform design , but by reproducing the “live ” , interactive three-dimensional design , and finally generate clothes clothing pattern pieces .
Xia Donghua University lecturer in the ” Web-based E-MTM Men customized fast production information system “, also created its own process , the first three-dimensional body scanner for data collection body , while customers in the site selection of styles . Then, the system completes the basic pattern , and generate personalized pattern .
Subsequently, the system loads the customer dimensional virtual mannequin, apparel and complete virtual simulation suture. At this point , the customer can see a virtual dress costume effect, if fitting satisfaction, customer can officially customization. System will also save the pattern to begin cutting and production.
On the other hand , orders for stores , the ” use of ‘ pull replenishment ‘ instead of the traditional ‘ push ‘ .” Industrial Management Institute of Software Engineering Research and Design Center Director Han Yongsheng soon fa · 2013 Aoshanwan Fashion Forum said.
He believes that the entire supply chain to take ” the drums – Buffer – Rope + dynamic buffer stock ” management model. Store sales like ruled the entire supply chain operations of the drums, the drums extends from a rope the rope touches all aspects of the supply chain replenishment action .
How many sales outlets , all aspects of how to fill while dynamically adjust inventory levels , neither out of stock , will not lead to inventory, release more liquidity .
Thus, starting from the market , to achieve a model reconstruction .
Next, in order to have more energy to implement quality strategy .
Fabric magical force
In Morrowind Group’s Kunshan plant , gross margin less than 30 % of orders are no longer connected .
This confidence comes from years of stick Morrowind , many years down Morrowind has a first-class garment production lines and become GAP, ADDIDAS, LACOSTE, Calvin Klein, UNIQLO and other famous international brand partners .
And do fine , you first need fabric innovation.
Such as Uniqlo classic plaid flannel shirt , 2011 Morrowind were produced 4.69 million , sold very well . The key is to continue to strengthen cooperation with the fabric business .
“Japan’s a business , I heard our ‘ wishful spinning ‘ can a wool spinning to 500 , they do not believe that it came to our business .” Shandong Ruyi Group Chairman Qiuya Fu says.
One to the smug, they placed an order , ” one meter 15,000 yuan .” And with this technology out of the coat spinning production , retail price in Europe, 180,000 yuan .
It is understood that in the traditional spinning, spinning equipment in parallel , only the addition of a ” twisting triangle area” means that the lower number of fibers in the spinning machine , the length and fineness requirements : the original 36 fibers in order to meet spinning limit, now down to 18 ; originally only do low- spun material able to do high- spun ; even noil , doffing like scraps can also be recycled ……
This practice two broke through the troubled textile industry “bottleneck “: First, large-scale production can be extremely Need yarn fabrics ; second is to use the lower limit of the fiber greatly reduced , the past can not be used , not the materials used ” wishful spinning . ”
And wishful spinning technology supporting high-end luxury fabrics to achieve annual sales of 100,000 m , holds a 20 percent market share in the world’s top fabric .
Similarly , by the untwisted yarn is widely used in towel weaving inspired chairman Ma Yucheng , Shandong Zexiang textile feel , ” with untwisted yarn to weaving, the same can not be soft, good moisture absorption fabric do ? ”
He read a lot of information , visited several major domestic fabric market , but did not find information about the untwisted woven products , and decided to develop one’s own .
However, one issue raised , it was the negation of the experts .
Ma Yucheng against all the odds , after several years of efforts, and finally developed a variety of fibers from the 3s-100s have twisted woven roving , spinning , etc. untwisted cotton cloth with Victoria and casual apparel for men and women shirts and other end products , related technologies also won the national invention patent a duly authorized , utility models, four , six international patents .
Product a market , they received a good response , such as multi-functional fabrics cotton shirt , the market selling price 398-1278 yuan / piece, only one city in Shandong Gaotang showrooms , monthly sales reached nearly 300,000 million.
Similarly, Lutai developed cotton yarn 300 , this product has been liquid ammonia finishing, silk fabric leaving it shiny and comfortable feel, this fabric is currently only able to mass Lutai .
In order to develop better quality shirts, Lutai first transformation equipment , operating practices to improve production Ge Leifen shirt sewing and stitching parts used in cotton texture stereotypes bone lining , sewn portion shirts wrinkle easily overcome the problems .
Process support force
Process , is one of Lutai focus .
Its vice president of business Qin garment up , put on a seamless line transformation process efficient sets of technology and industrialization of the garment on .
“No matter which one costume change, mostly manifested in the style, fabric , color .” So began a seamless line Lutai efficient garment sets of technology research and development.
Before sutureless garment processing technology, the first to be used in Europe and breathable waterproof outdoor clothing , and high elastic knitted fabric.
Through the efforts of independent research and development of natural fibers Lutai “weld ” materials and developed methods and processes garment fusing seams , “to create a chemical class from outdoor clothing and sportswear apparel to natural fiber fabrics historic transition .”
It is also because manufacturers process innovation , Lutai shirt made out of iron , good seam strength is high, three-dimensional sense of strong, and comfortable , which has also been identified as a national expert review group , ” the international advanced level .”
” First, according to fabric characteristics , select lining .” Ye Li Ya Yuan Wen Group executive vice president and talked non-adhesive wool ( hemp ) lining handmade suit this to say .
Since the non- adhesive wool ( hemp ) backing handmade suit case of wet weather , formerly easy to fold , easy to pocket lid eversion , so Ye Li Ya began a process innovation .
For example, for interlining with 40 ℃ warm water for 24 hours to dry after cutting , and the garment , lining for two hours before steaming , and then drying.
Relation to the previous films deposited lining modeling, to refute the line of pull 0.5-0.7cm. Garment , lining curve first with manual positioning , and then deposited on the lining machine . Hand satisfied split head , to follow the split head radians. Deposited after a good steam stereotypes.
To ensure the sewing thread and fabric shrinkage similar to Ye Li Ya selection elasticity of imports sewing thread . Surface with three strands , where with two strands , only the mouth with a silk cord. Meanwhile, sleeves, rib , body, after moderate use imported green liquid seam stereotypes . Also, split head , neck and other parts go hand pull .
Currently, Ye Li Ya single volume single CD business has done the United States, France, Italy, Canada , Japan, Korea and other countries, in Japan the establishment of three free stores, 34 stores in South Korea May sales amounted to 1700 units.
The Huayi use technology to produce three-dimensional three-dimensional art of memory fashion products sell well in Europe , America , Japan and other developed countries, regional and domestic high-end market. ,
The so-called three-dimensional memory technology is for digital , thermal transfer printing and other hydraulic polymerization technology integration, integrated innovation and a sense of beauty with relief process , special visual texture of garments finishing technology .
Similarly, Chinour ” air catalyst type worsted suit production and process research”, ” suit xylitol production and technology research”, ” permanent antistatic suit production and process research”, the domestic textile and apparel industry has been recognized by experts .
It is also because making art with concept and way of making clothing, Mailyard to do foreign orders, just the other design styles, Mailyard according to their craft, to stake out plate, choose fabric accessories .
The mystery is that the U.S. has taken to increase technology Ya Content Soft Processing method, the modern assembly line with a delicate handmade organic blend together , so that the better performance of the human body suit .
Mailyard which a suit , the market price of 30,000 yuan, which contains 760 steps , ” If you wear this suit business trip , do not have special bag , just click on the suitcase stacked , to the destination, click on the flat hanging out as new . ”
In 3502 the company Jihua , this year alone in 2011 , it received a number of patents, and completed 136 tools , process improvement, company technology center also qualify for the state-level enterprise technical centers.
Everything begins with the details . Dalian Fukuyama FKYM, hidden in a zip rain cap and for fixing belt design, each 3 cm fixed to 12-pin , very strict process standards . Symmetrically on both sides of the collar to be accurate to the thousandth error precision ……
In Nanshan Hilton and Bowen plant , automatic cutting bed down from the garment , but also through the test piece , on the article on the grid , clip on fine cut machine after finishing cut. In the sewing line , even the ” machine open back pocket ” cards are very meticulous process : such as ” Quality standard: open the bag must be adjusted before the stitches , open the bag width requirements consistent , open lines the same width .”
Brand penetration
“Innovation is the warm winter clothes .” Wuhan Giovanni fashion company chairman Fu Jie said.
It is understood that he had in Paris, Milan , Shanghai , Wuhan, established four R & D centers , to develop products.
“Behind closed doors is not innovative , ” Guo Donglin said that any outstanding design talent if infrequent contact with the outside world , to learn from others , will lose his excellent place . Only by mastering the pulse of fashion and popular , and then use their strengths and unique brand culture , in order to innovate.
So they took the “going out and bringing in” response.
One compelling approach is to set up its own pure in London independent design studio, ” London is the international fashion capital” , and the design studio set up , “allows a pure European and American fashion first time butt .”
The designers are not in plain fixed in the company to work. Company to give them sufficient time to become familiar with the market , understand the market . Even if it is night, they are not allowed to rest at home , and to integrate into the local lives. In China, the company has a number of design centers, employing more than 200 fashion designers .
” Brand influence is that many Chinese enterprises to go abroad , the biggest problem .” Vicior.Lippit said he was very familiar with Chinese products , but I really do not know what brand of China .
In fact , this is an important focus of the development of Chinese enterprises .
In 1997, under the impact of the Asian financial crisis , Dayang Group has gradually developed by the OEM model to ODM, which becomes the original designers , according to the manufacturer ‘s specifications and other requirements of the design and production of products.
Then, on this basis, the large Yang began to build its own brand “Creation .”
The arrival of the financial crisis , in fact, already have a more Dayang emboldened enough . Dayang this setting of the production line, and began to build a single- volume single CD Company – flown by air to go, one week delivery.
Meanwhile , start a network marketing brand YOUSOKU ( Cool Blogs ) .
The original Dr. Rana , also do the processing . However, Chairman of the Board Zhong Zheng Yong got the feeling increasing pressure, in 1996, began to explore sales channels .
2005 time, the fourth Harry Potter simultaneous global release. Dr. Rana through negotiations , to get the Harry Potter series cartoon brand licensing, design their own clothing styles and terminal sales .
Then , Dr. Rana won successive Prince of Tennis , NBA, Manchester United, Juventus , etc. 7 licensed brands .
Subsequently , in 2008, Chung Cheng registered the brand in Japan, “Baby2”, commissioned by the Japanese OEM, is focused on building its own brands and take care of channels .
Dr. Rana also completed from the processing enterprises to manufacture the brand, and then to the terminal brand attempt.
The distinction lies in the problem , in the end suitable for manufacturing brand , or terminal brand , or both?
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